© The Social Food, Gilles Draps et Søren Kristian Reed.
We fell in love with his Nordic-inspired dishes and his wild foraging obsession on Top Chef. While we wait for the 2025 opening of his own restaurant (centered around fried chicken!), Clotaire Poirier is setting up his knives and laid-back vibe at Bambino in the 11th arrondissement for a temporary residency. We joined for the first service. Verdict?
Unique Ingredients, Subtle Results
© Søren Kristian Reed.
A hotspot for trendsetters in the 11th, Bambino is one of Clotaire’s favorite spots in Paris. Expect high tables, bar stools, vinyls on repeat, and an open kitchen for this much-anticipated residency. Forget about Instagram stories—the space is dimly lit, forcing all focus on the plates.
Although the chef has traveled extensively, cooking in Ireland, Argentina, and Australia, it was in Copenhagen at Kadeau where he honed his passion for fermentations and wild ingredients. This is reflected in some curious menu options. Duck hearts are skewered on twigs gathered by the couple themselves, then meticulously sharpened (“Life of a chef’s wife,” jokes Marilys). Oysters are adorned with elderflowers, and ray wing is sprinkled with a condiment made from ants. An amuse-bouche brings a punchy vegetarian nigiri, wrapped in apple leather and infused with buckwheat koji: an absolute flavor bomb.
The first course delivers an exquisitely aromatic mussel dish, the mollusks cooked over spruce and woodfire. At the bottom of the plate lies a clear broth, perfect for mopping up with an outstanding brioche. “In Denmark, serving bread is sacrilege, but here in Paris, we had no choice!” laughs Clotaire as he passes by. The centerpiece of his future restaurant, fried chicken, comes with a thick crust that complicates the cooking process. Dessert is a playful take on a soufflé-style crepe (it’s actually the cream inside that’s souffléed like Italian meringue) with caramel made from whey. The well-curated wine list by Marilys, featuring the addictive Triptyque by Yann Bertrand, deserves a special mention.
Verdict: While the menu promises bold and unexpected flavors with rare ingredients (garum of garfish, blackcurrant wood oil, coral salt…), the raw, straightforward tastes are pleasant but not astonishing. Could these surprise guests have been presented in a more punchy way? Get your reservations in and let us know what you think soon!
Bambino x Clotaire Poirier, from September 23 to October 13, 2024. Five-course menu: €85 (excluding wine). Reservations via bookings.zenchef.com
Discover also Aura: The Spectacular Surprise of an Unexpected Dinner and Cristina and Pierre Chomet open their romantic restaurant.
