Unexpected gourmet association! Fans of Top Chef will surely remember Louise Bourrat, winner of the 2022 edition. But what nobody could have predicted is that the friendly Portuguese chef (her gastronomic table Boubou's is located in Lisbon), who is used to working with offal and smoked eel, would take the reins of a pop-up menu at... Ladurée! Until October 27th, the venerable Parisian house invites the highly creative cook to its restaurant on Rue Royale. The verdict? A pleasant surprise.
An unexpected menu
It obviously took some discussion and compromise to coexist two almost diametrically opposed universes. In the end, it must be said that the promise of these "Soirées Royales" is fulfilled. Nestled in the cocotte decor of the legendary Madeleine address, we discover a tempting 5-course tasting menu (85 € and an additional 38 € for a solid food and wine pairing including white, red and... sake!).
We start with the dainty Vol-au-vent, proudly displayed on their silver platter, including a particularly playful octopus hot dog and a langoustine cigar with orange and horseradish cream. A promising appetizer. Next comes an entrée of a crab-filled cream puff topped with poppy cream, followed by a matured duck fondant with spices, hibiscus, lavender, turnip, radish and lovage, accompanied by a little surprise on a separate plate.
Obviously, the star pastry chef of the house, Julien Alvarez, intervened on the desserts, working with Louise Bourrat on a coconut rice pudding, jasmine sorbet, and yuzu (yum, the crispy venere rice under the shell) and a flurry of homemade delicacies including a vanilla Eugénie biscuit, the new darling of elegant snacks that could well overshadow the Maison's cult macaron.
CHIC Drink
Just passing by? The other option is to stop for a tasteful aperitif around a delicate cocktail such as the pink Different Tonic with gin, bergamot liqueur, sparkling grapefruit, and teapot bitters or the non-alcoholic Botaniste with cucumber juice, elderflower cordial, basil, lime juice, Sichuan pepper, and magic velvet (16 €). Note: the aforementioned Vol-au-vent are also available individually to accompany the drink (18 €).
Les Soirées Royales de Louise Bourrat, until October 27, 2023, from Tuesday to Saturday, from 7:30 pm to 10:30 pm.
© Gilles Trillard
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