It's all the buzz since its decision to make its Israeli table 100% kosher. Committed, Chef Ohad Amzallag is as much engaged in defining its DNA as in its plant-based and marine dishes, favoring salt fermentation to replace spices. We went to dine at Guefen, a pocket-sized address nestled just steps from République.
A Unique Aura
Nestled on Rue du Vertbois, behind a thick velvet curtain, unfolds an intimate setting completely cut off from the Parisian hustle and bustle, where a large high table first invites guests to a delightful evening of sharing. Exposed beams, dimmed lights, and leather seats complete this soothing atmosphere. Another privileged spot : the counter facing the kitchen allows you to admire the focused cooks in the heat of action, their noise of pots covered by an engaging Israeli playlist. We're in for a treat !
Nice touch : between courses, Ohad strolls between tables to gauge the mood and share a moment with everyone, telling whoever wishes about his techniques for replacing spices, sourcing his products, or his inspirations. It must be said that this kitchen veteran is no stranger to the game, having worked as a chef at Shouk after 25 years of experience in several establishments in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv.
Kosher in the New Good
Fish enthusiasts (whether kosher or not!) have an appointment at Guefen : Ohad Amzallag confesses a certain obsession with seafood, enhancing them through a special process dating back to antiquity : fermentation (his secret weapon !). The result ? Characterful dishes and juices with iodized notes, without the addition of spices. On the menu: a unique five-course menu (€97), a true taste journey from the Middle East to Eastern Europe via the Arabian Peninsula.
That evening, the feast started with fish tempura served with aioli, a burnt eggplant caviar tartlet covered with beetroot, and delicious skewers of miso-seared tuna on a homemade brioche/blini. This was followed by a decadent braised onion stuffed with egg yolk cream, shiitake, béchamel, and cheese, grilled sea bass accompanied by a champagne white butter sauce, kale, and angel hair pasta. Please save room for dessert, of which you'll rave about : a rose water ice cream, whipped feta coated in white chocolate, and pistachio crumble of absolute delicacy.
Open from Sunday to Thursday from 7:00 PM to 11:30 PM.
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