What we love most about Do It? Sitting down in a nice restaurant, with attentive staff (but not overbearing!) and enticing plates that stand out. Mission accomplished at Brion, chef Geoffrey Lengagne's very first establishment freshly opened in the heart of the 9th arrondissement that we love.
Heartfelt Cooking
Geoffrey Lengagne might ring a bell, as we've talked about his residency last summer at Les Petites Mains, the amazing terrace at the foot of Palais Galliera with breathtaking views of the Eiffel Tower. His forte? Seasonality, top-quality ingredients, and a certain level of excellence stemming from his gastronomic journey through kitchens such as La Réserve or alongside Pierre Gagnaire and Mathieu Viannay.
In the bustling 9th arrondissement, just a stone's throw away from the popular Italian spot Madonna, his first restaurant stands among those neighborhood gems that warm the heart. Its cozy, unpretentious decor boasts light wood and forest green accents, with a glimpse into the open kitchen at the back. As a prelude, one might gladly seek advice on a glass of wine from a selection curated by the chef himself, such as a Vouvray Sang de Roche (€9.50), or even opt for the unbeatable food and wine pairing (4 wines, €36).
Surprising Plates
At both lunch and dinner, diners relax over a menu where they can choose their formula, à la carte or opt for the four-course blind tasting menu for the more adventurous (€69). As an amuse-bouche, guests first bite into a playful little onion beignet accompanied by a mushroom broth. Already, delicious.
Among the well-thought-out dishes (which inevitably change regularly due to seasonal arrivals): marinated Pyrenean trout with barley, pil pil, and lemon on a bed of crunchy cabbage (€18), or roasted Jerusalem artichokes with mint sabayon, Savoie tomme cheese, and XO sauce, a spicy seafood condiment from Hong Kong (€16). For the main courses, revel in a roasted Bresse chicken with turmeric condiment, onions, and licorice (€31), or line-caught fish, such as tender tuna with Basque pimento, chimichurri, and smoked oyster mushrooms (€28). A final indulgence in dessert: a lemon cannolo bomb, confit grapefruit, mezcal granita, and ancho chili (€12), or a creamy Madagascar chocolate, blood orange, pear, and buckwheat concoction (€13). In short: an effective establishment at the intersection of cool and mastery.
Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Friday.
© Salomé Rateau
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