The neighborhood around République/Parmentier was mostly known for its street food joints and bistros with abundant feasting potential. But now, it's adorned with a new gastronomic spot that goes by the name of Amâlia, run by a star-studded Italian couple. Verdict ? An exciting address to add to your to-do list.
Once upon a time, there were two lovers
Both Italians, both equally talented in their fields, Cecilia Spurio and Eugenio Anfuso form the new power couple of Parisian gastronomy. She, a pastry chef, wielded her piping bag in the kitchens of Pierre Gagnaire, Guy Savoy, and Yannick Alléno. He honed his knives at L’Astrance and L’Ambroisie. Impressive, right ?
The result of this extraordinary journey is Amâlia ("hardworking" in its original language for those who still speak Gothic) : a definitively refined restaurant (tablecloths, service, sommelier, amuse-bouche, and other chic codes are all in play) located in the heart of the 11th arrondissement, an exciting neighborhood that nevertheless lacked a haute cuisine address. The decor, almost incidental compared to the elegance on the plates, still seems to lack personal touches. But fear not : we came here to grapple with a highly promising menu! For two people, if possible, request the table facing the kitchen to admire the chef at work.
Comfort served with a gourmet twist
In the evening, you have two choices : the gargantuan Grand Menu Amâlia (€120) or the more reasonable Seasonal Menu (€80), whose preludes tantalize in advance (you'll be raving about the bite-sized Parmesan flan). Followed by starters and mains that push the boundaries of comfort and elegance, all adorned with the right touch of oil and texture play to keep boredom at bay : celeriac and crispy mushrooms on their fragrant broth, cod pearled like never before, seaweed cream, razor clams in a marinade and trout eggs, or even lacquered veal saddle, date, harissa, and almonds (pure madness).
We cleanse our palate before the sweet with an adorable pre-dessert of licorice, black garlic, and lemon, smoothly transitioning to the serious stuff: caramelized Jerusalem artichoke, Piedmont hazelnut ice cream, coffee praline, and chocolate mousse. Care for another petit four ? They'll eventually arrive in sets of three! Italian generosity and French excellence have never made such a perfect match.
Open Wednesday through Sunday evenings, with lunch service on Saturdays and Sundays.
Also explore the Ouzeri, Mikaela Liaroutsos's Greek bistro, and the devastating charm of the minet galant.
